Flume Removal  


1

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone has removed the internal flume/fireplace? If so did you need to get an engineer to come and inspect the fireplace and make sure it can be removed? also i am looking to keep the top chimney and just blocking if off. Any advice would be great.

 

Also thank you for replying to my first post on this site.. I have been very busy on the rebuild of the house!!

 
0

Hi Bisfadvice, 

Take a look at the below posts that cover all aspects of flue removal.

https://www.bisfhouse.com/removal-of-cast-iron-chimney-flue-by-member-doug/

https://www.bisfhouse.com/Community/diy-home-improvement/flu-frame-removal/

As far as I am aware, there was no requirement for an engineer.

In my case, I left the upper portion of the pipe in situ but bear in mind that the base of the mid section, steel flue frame support, sits slightly below the living room ceiling and may need boxing out with lighting etc, if you leave this in place.

You can remove the entire flue and support frame and simply cap the fabricated chimney pot.

Let me know if anything of what I have said sounds a bit confusing.

I've only had time to write a quick reply but any problems, let me know.

Regards

Marc

 

Further to above, you can see the flue support cage in the image below. 

If you look just below the ceiling joists, you will see a plate on the side of the cage. This is the portion of the cage that sits just below ceiling level when the lower half of the cage has been removed. 

If you intend to leave the middle portion of the flue in situ, (running from the bedroom floor up to roof level) then you will need to leave the middle portion of the cage in place.

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When doing this, you will see that 2-3 inches of the cage (Flat Plated area in image) will protrude below the plasterboard of the ceiling. This is what needs to be disguised in some way.

There may be a way of trimming this protrusion down, using an angle grinder etc, but great care should be taken as a lot of sparks are generated and the area and surrounding insulation can be highly flammable. If using such a tool, always make sure you have plenty of buckets of water nearby and always have a hand trigger water spray bottle at hand, to fully dampen the surrounding work area prior to using any cutting tools.

In general though, most people leave the cage in place and build a small light plinth into the ceiling and there's a couple of examples below.

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I've also added a short gallery showing how I got around this issue in my property. I simply used CLS timber to create the plinth and added lights inside.

You should also be able to see the protruding cage in the images. I went for the brute force option of smashing the old flue with a lump hammer. This did leave behind some sharp edges. I also bolted a piece of cut steel from the old cage into the bottom of the structure to act as additional support for the remaining flue and to prevent it from ever dropping down. 

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0

Hello thank you so much for all the detailed explanations and possible methods. I would like to completely remove everything but just leave the stack at the top. How would you block and seal the top of the chimney stack??

I also have another question regarding insulation. I am looking to use soft insulation for the walls, which is the best insulation one can use for this type of house? And how much of a gap should be kept? I want to make the house as warm as possible since I know they are pretty bad with heat

Thank you again 

 
  
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